![]() ![]() ![]() Miller’s mission has been to counter such critiques by preserving and sharing the culinary tradition’s history. ![]() “They’ll tell you that it’s the master’s garbage,” Miller says, “that you’re digesting white supremacy.” ![]() But whereas Black students of that era protested to demand soul food at universities, recent years have seen a reversal, with Black students protesting against being served it, saying it is unhealthy and a vestige of slavery-a way of cooking leftovers from slaveholder kitchens. Coined during the 1960s, soul food entered the popular lexicon when the Black Power movement identified the cuisine as heritage and “a line of demarcation between white Southern culture and Black culture,” Miller says. That history, it turns out, is complex and controversial, and was poorly documented until Miller, ’91, spent decades researching it. These were foods Adrian Miller ate as a child, unaware of their history. Turnip and mustard greens cooked with ham hock, red pepper, garlic and onion. ![]()
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